When Mexican cuisine comes to mind the staples are at the forefront; beans, rice, and tortillas.
In today’s society the “essentials” are packaged and accessible at the grocery store, the appreciation of how much work actually goes into these dishes is lost. And more relevant, I think, is the depreciation of familial tradition as living healthier lifestyles is on the rise. Which, let’s face it, traditional Mexican cuisine does not fit into the rejuvenescent subculture. But it can!
Now, I get a lot of flack from my mother-in-law, and even my own mom about the ingredients I use to make these dishes...more often than not, I also tend to use more healthful alternatives where the outcome isn’t as palatable as the coveted fats and carbs that lend their comforting flavors. I’ll highlight must-haves in my kitchen, substitutions (if any) & how often I actually use them.
BEANS
We all know the ditty “Beans, beans, the magical fruit...the more you eat the more you ‘BART’!!!!” (The Simpson’s). Legumes are pretty magical and it seems the varieties are endless with each having an array of healthful benefits. For the purpose of this post, and authenticity, we’re just going to focus on the pinto bean. I seriously only make a pot of beans once a month. I also only cook for 3 of us daily and we don’t consume a steady diet of beans & tortillas at every meal. I like variety, probably why my 6 year old prefers smoked Gouda in her quesadillas instead of cheddar, American or Jack...but that’s a story for another day. Back to beans at every meal; many Mexican households do provide the never-ending olla of frijoles on the stove. Growing up with “my daily bean”, I feel is overkill. Are they one of my favorite things in the world, no...are they comforting as all hell, yes! But here’s my thing, they are time consuming to make from scratch but (whispers) they freeze really well. It actually takes an entire afternoon just to sort rocks and bad beans (if you buy bulk), if not well rip open that bag and rinse, then there’s the overnight soaking (crucial to perfectly made beans), then there’s the all-day simmer (it’s only a few hours, but it feels like all day) or just throw them in the crockpot on low before bed & they’re ready by the time you get up in the morning (this is what I usually do now). Because, in the day & age of instant gratification, beans, real frijoles de la olla, are becoming a traditional delicacy rather than an everyday dish it seems, because it’s just easier to buy canned or set the crock/instant pot and go. Anyways, when I make beans I use what I need the day I make them, leave a little in the fridge, and throw the rest in quart-size resealable bags (or the stereotypical, plastic butter container) to freeze. Quart-size, you’re probably wondering...because to serve a dinner for 4 that is just enough, whether to serve whole or to refry and smash. Also, beans go rancid very quickly, so this just insures I use what I need and none goes to waste. So, beans, and their popularity in Mexican kitchens boils down to (pun intended) that they’re abundantly affordable, have a mile-long list of benefits, and are very economically sustainable. Whew, who knew I had so much knowledge and so many words to express about the importance and intricacies of beans?
RICE
Ha, you think beans in my house are scarce...Spanish rice is like a unicorn! Rice for me is the ultimate indicator of how much dedication, care, and love you put into your food. I don’t make it often, but my mom ALWAYS asks me to make it when I visit her! The most fickle of all the foods I have ever made is rice! All rice; jasmine, wild, brown...they all have their own set of rules and if you don’t follow them your dish is fu*ked! Soggy mushiness is the worst when it comes to Spanish rice. And sticky, bland, undercooked are other no, nos. Make sure the sun, moon and stars are all aligned before you make a bulk cazuela of arroz! I personally try to stay away from large portions/servings of refined grains, mainly because they tend to be higher on the glycemic index (GI) and processed. When I make rice for my family, I stick with brown rice since it’s lower on the GI, contains more fiber and is nutrient-rich. I’ll make a rice dish once every two weeks or so. But, I have to admit when there’s a craving for Spanish rice, which I don’t really fiend for all that often, I will splurge and make enough to share with the rest of the fam 😜 I can’t tell you that I know for certain what the secret to making perfect Spanish rice is; but 1. I use the same pot every time...I’m telling you, rice is a big ol’ B so when you find something that works, stick with it & 2. maybe it’s that I don’t really measure anything and use “the force”, but I can tell you with all seriousness that I let the universe, my instinct, maybe my ancestral beings guide me...all I know is that I can make it perfectly almost every time. Brown, boil, simmer and fluff.
PORK LARD
The greatest point of contention with my elders is my lacking use of LARD! For years I chose to sub olive oil for pork fat. When obesity plagues your family & your race, and heart health becomes a priority you start to make changes with the things you can control; food. Here’s the thing with this, the more I cook with whole, fresh ingredients, the less I find myself using so many unsaturated fats. I can confidently say that, although I make frijoles de la olla (maybe) once a month, refried beans only happen about once every 3 or 4 months! So, when I do make refried beans, I can actually use those delectably rich bacon drippings that give them their very distinct flavor! Lard is also an essential (majority will claim the MOST essential) ingredient in tortillas. Lard gives them their flavor and texture; butter, shortening, and even cooking oils can be used in place of cooked pig grease. https://www.kingarthurbaking.com/recipes/simple-tortillas-recipe This link is also a really good tortilla recipe. It’s the closest to perfect that I have found.
TORTILLAS
Store-bought V. Homemade: Flour V. Corn
First of all, I make flour tortillas when the mood strikes. And second, I have never made corn tortillas, but hope to get a press soon to attempt them. Here is, yet another, time consuming food. I’m a fan of store-bought flour and corn tortillas; quick, easy, quesadillas in a jiff. But because I grew up on homemade flour tortillas, I’m SUPER EXTRA PARTICULAR about the perfect ones. And there are two, ONLY 2 brands that I will buy in the United States, Porkyland Flour Tortillas, only found in San Diego, and Tortilla Land, which I have found in various grocery stores from Southern Oregon to Central CA. Since I was born & raised in San Diego, we often crossed the border into Mexico or ordered freshly made corn tortillas from local tortillerías. Fresh, warm, soft corn tortillas with a slice of queso fresco...ugh, makes my mouth water just thinking about it!
And Dudes, let me tell you...if you’re joining the homemade gang, find yourself a good recipe and try to perfect it. I can assure you, friend, IT’S NOT THE INGREDIENTS OR THE RECIPE. It’s most likely the thickness of your tortilla and the heat of your comal (griddle). You gotta find that happy medium. I’m still trying to get my tortillas round, so there’s that...
Oh, and then we have salsa...eh, that’s for another day (with a recipe)!
One thing to keep in mind with all
of this, it’s not necessary to always have these in your kitchens arsenal, but good to have on-hand. Healthier options are what suits myself & my family on a regular basis. Beans come in a variety with different nutritional benefits, mix it up. Riced cauliflower is a big hit for dinner in my house and red quinoa is a comprable sub for rice as well. The time where we burn all those calories, fats and carbs to produce and harvest those very same staples that sustain Mexican households is a bygone era. I feel like I try to stay as true to tradition as possible when preparing the “essentials”, but it’s just not nutritionally sound to eat them daily anymore. They are no longer a necessity for me but delicacies that tie me to a heritage that shouldn’t be lost due to changing times. They should be celebrated cultural practices that are passed on and shared; endowing our children with a legacy, nurturing what we’ve learned by maintaining familial traditions.
Thanks for reading today, friends.
Hast la próxima,
SALUD 🥃